Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail

Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail scene and a section of chunky trail conditions.

Planning a ride on the 83 mile Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (XNHAT) was doable, even in October this year due to the prolonged drought and unusually warm stretch of sunny days. From the western New Hampshire border, eastward to Bethel, Maine, the "trail" is a mix of gravel rail trail - often quite rough - dirt roads, a few sandy stretches shared with ATVs, highway with a couple steep hills, and quiet rolling paved backroads near the eastern terminus. 

End of first day, enjoying the smoother, scenic Presidential Rail Trail.

The XNHAT website includes lots of planning information. They mailed us a waterproof map, which was a huge help because the trail is virtually unsigned - we noticed only 3 markers - so additional phone navigation was necessary. We started on the western end, leaving the car behind.  We reserved a campsite halfway, one in Bethel, and arranged for a shuttle back to our vehicle on the third morning. The only difficulty was getting to each campground by dark. It's odd to camp in October, and my husband and I realized we hadn't chosen to do it in 40 years! 

The well equipped Israel River Campground and a surprise full moon.

The climb from Woodsville along the Ammonoosuc River for the first 20 miles on newly graded, chunky surface gave me trouble. I should've been fine with 2" tires, so I moved slowly, eventually taking a much needed break in Littleton. The afternoon was in the 80sF, but the surfaced improved and we made "time" on the paved portions, arriving at 4:30 at the comfortable Israel River Campground. 

Left: the large bridge span over the Androscoggin River at Gorham. Right: Foliage on North Road, leading into Maine.

The second day's miles were more agreeable, descending gradually on the leaf covered Presidential Trail. We got offtrack in Gorham, unfortunately, letting gravity lead us through sandy shared ATV portion, crossing the amazingly long bridge, into more sand before having to backtrack uphill through the mess to access Gorham and lunch - on the other side of the river! Once we sorted that out, it was easiest to ride on a busy highway for 5 miles, then regain the "trail" on the next bridge crossing. It was a lovely afternoon ride on semi shaded North Road, eventually camping in Bethel, ME. The shuttle back to the car worked perfectly.

I loved that the route followed two major New Hampshire Rivers: Ammonoosuc and Androscoggin. Unfortunately, both were extremely low due to the drought so we missed the waters lovely serenade.

Favorite portions: The Presidential Rail Trail and North Road.

Downtube Dyan - a New Handlebar and Front Rack

Soma's Clarence handlebar, flipped upside down, allowed a comfortable hand position.

Along with the initial saddle and pedal swap, I also needed to address the handlebars, seeking something more ergonomically friendly in addition to adding a front rack, so I'm all set for Amtrak adventures.

The Bars

The slotted handlepost is exceptionally long, and while I consider myself on the taller side at 5'7", I still had to slam the post for the best fit. I knew a new bar could fix both problems. Like swapping bars on my mountain bike, I use the same problem-solving technique: determine correct width, rise, and sweep, room for controls - 7" in my case - and avoid recabling the bike if at all possible. The bar also had to be fairly compact and not affect the fold. Most bars with a forward arc and similar backsweep will work. This in-depth research, and paying attention to all measurements, is hopefully the correct solution the first time around. Soma's Clarence handlebar worked perfectly. I'm 2 for 2! 

Top-down view of the flipped bars. So comfy!

 

Front Rack

The goal with a front rack, was to have more storage when needed, be removable so the bike could still be folded, and be lightweight enough to lug around, connected to any bag and strap system. I attached a red "pig nose" bracket to frame connection. It's permanent (unless unscrewed) and doesn't interfere with the fold. The simple L-shaped Zizzo Front Cargo Rack slides and clicks firmly in place, released easily by pulling a hook in the red bracket. 

I'm pleased with both changes!

Slow Rolling with Adele - Veloroute des Bleuets

The Veloroute des Bleuets has been on my radar for several years, but the 6+ hour travel to the region, north of Quebec City, was an adventure reserved for retirement - until my slow rolling buddy decided to do all the legwork, reserving accommodations. Difficulty in finding places to stay indoors for our intended 4-day, 150-mile loop meant some days were longer than others. Anytime after Labor Day is the off-season, so there are fewer tourists and cyclists. Like any bike tour, there were highs and lows, along the often beautiful trails, quirky towns, and some dangerous highways, leaving me with a love-hate relationship with the touted loop.

We eventually found the famed blueberry fields, turned out in their autumn colors.

The first day was hectic, getting lost immediately, but gradually regaining the route. From then on, the signage was fairly clear. It was a blustery day - trees fell across the path - and the ferry wasn't running to shorten miles through the gorgeous National Park, but it was a tailwind!  We changed the first night's reservation to stay at a cabin, which meant grabbing groceries from a small market, but wine solved most of our night's problems. It was a smart move to ride a bit further to shorten the next day's long miles. The fully stocked cabin - in a campground! - was a perfect, fun, and quiet glamping experience.

Lower right, meeting Ann and her Terry Bike.

We rode in and out of showers the second day, warmed in a cafe, experienced beautiful falls, and the route periodically followed a busy highway - Route 169 would become our nemesis going forward - ending the day at a quaint hotel overlooking a river. After 55 miles, I was exhausted, and without dinner service at the hotel, it was a miracle that Adele befriended other cyclists, their tour driver thankfully giving us all a lift to a restaurant. I was ready to make do with my granola bike stash!

The 23 miles to Val Jabert, a historic village, was a quick tailwind in sublime sunshine. It seemed odd to briefly ride for 2-3 hours, but the break was welcome. We checked in early, walked around the village and the pulp mill exhibits, took the tram up beside the falls, and generally relaxed. We had a multicourse dinner in the mill restaurant and breakfast the next morning.

The fourth and final day was an enjoyable mixture of rolling bike path, back roads, and finally getting a good cup of coffee and pastries. Adele and I were previously offered watered-down coffee, when all our other Canadian adventures, bakeries, and espresso drinks were the norm. We all commented on how the tourist region was, oddly, a food desert.

The last two days were reserved for investigating the Saguenay Fjord. This was Nancy's idea, and I'm glad to have had this wonderful experience. An avid hiker and strong cyclist, she also expertly drove us around, even cool and calm in hectic Quebec City traffic. We hiked in the national park, spent time on a tidal beach, and went on an amazing whale watch tour - my first!

Riding Montreal's South Shore Trails

Eating lunch at Atwater Market, and a view beneath the Champlain Bridge.

For decades, I've been enchanted by pedaling around Montreal - really anywhere in Quebec or the Ottawa environs - due to the region's incredible cycling infrastructure. My friend Adele is another aficionado, as evidenced by our years of adventures, including gastronomic and cultural events. On this August adventure, prompted to visit our number one son at the beginning of his Montreal vacation, I took 3 additional days off so my husband and I could explore on two wheels before our rendezvous.

Earlier in the year, we tented at KOA South Shore. This time, we returned for 3 nights of glamping in their comfortable cabin arrangement. The first evening, we pedaled around St. Philippe's meandering small bike network, veering in and out of neighborhoods. Canadian architecture is oddly appealing: vertical windows, steep-pitched roofs, some with more modern black window frames, like what we're seeing in the US. Many places didn't have garages, and neighborhoods were a mixture of  mobile homes and two-story newer housing. St. Philippe is growing. I presume the attraction is its small-town flavor and nearby train station, and its proximity to Montreal.

The newer Champlain Bridge with the old architecturally beautiful support leftover from the former bridge, in the background (to the left) being renovated into some sort of monument.

We started a few miles from the campground, catching the south shore bike network, pedaling beneath the Champlain Bridge, over the Ice Bridge trail, lunched at Atwater Market, then continued east through Industrial land, before looping back over an island, returning the same way. Construction season is in full swing before the snow flies, so we navigated detours, generally making up the route as we went. Of interest, but not pictured, was riding along the container ship region, boats, cranes, and rusted multistory buildings juxtaposed against downtown's glass towers. 

The second day, we headed a bit west, pedaling both sides of the Beauharnois Canal.

Worth noting was crossing the lesser of two dangerous bridges, first trying to use the "sidewalk" separated by rails, only to discover halfway across, it was too narrow, appearing to be access for bridge workers, and it ended halfway across the span. We hefted our bikes over the rail between waves of traffic to regain the southside trail network.

On the third day, we visited and rode all the lovely trails at Boucherville Islands National Park. The trail network has been on my radar for a while, and I'm delighted we made it happen! Several of the islands are accessible only by foot, bike, boat, and two ferries from both east and west of the Saint Lawrence River. There are campgrounds, hiking-only trails, and lots of wildlife. We flushed a dozen turkeys from their hidden roosting spot.

Canada, we shall return.

Cross Vermont & Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (LVRT) 7 Day Adventure

Day 1 - Cross VT & LVRT, Home to Little River State Park in Waterbury. 45 miles

My husband planned a cross-state touring loop, using the Cross Vermont Trail and the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (LVRT), then unfortunately couldn't join me, due to a recent injury. Last minute, I figured out how to carry the tent and left - uniquely this route starts/finishes from home - and on my birthday, no less! Canadian wildfires have affected air quality, plus most of my allotted vacation time was forecast to be hot, but I felt compelled to start the trip as I'd been looking forward to it. The beauty of this adventure, unlike any other, is that I wouldn't be too far from home, should it not work out.

The first day's miles were mostly familiar, though camping at Little River State Park, in the overflow spot reserved for cyclists, was a delight. I swam in beautifully clear lake water, a break from the heat. The poor air caused a sore throat, but it disappeared once I had stopped riding.

Day 2 - Cross VT & LVRT, Little River State Park to Montpelier. 15 miles

 

The next morning, just as I was ready to leave, it started raining. Scrambling to protect my gear, I repacked panniers lined in garbage bags, including covering the front rack. I wore a poncho, more breathable than rain gear in the heat. Unfortunately, I only made it to Montpelier when it started to pour - definitely wasn't in the forecast! I took refuge at Capital Grounds, the local coffee shop. It was then I decided to call it quits for the day after consulting the radar. I planned to find indoor accommodation, and talked with my husband, who offered to bring me home, then drove me back the following day, after cleaning and drying all my gear. Vacation time is precious and I never want it to be a suffer fest, plus I had built in a few extra days should foul weather occur.

Day 3 - Cross VT & LVRT, Montpelier to Ricker State Park. 25 miles

I loved the third day! Following my intuition, I bypassed a listed detour on Route 2 - the hill looked ominous - and returned to the Wells River Trail in Plainfield. Again, a one mile section, noted, before advised to rejoin the busy road, yet a runner said I could continue on the wooded trail. Another junction, a trail snaked around a short, signed private driveway, then the rail trail continued on, completely skipping miles of pavement! It was a 20 mile wooded climb, and an eventual intersection with Ricker Pond Campground. The swim felt delightful.

Day 4 - Cross VT & LVRT, Ricker State Park to Danville. 23 miles

 

The fourth day was brutal, climbing and descending hot pavement through small towns, eventually topping out in Danville, where the following day I'd turn west on the LVRT. I walked several steep sections. I was done riding by noon - clearly not in hill-shape - relaxed at the campsite, then spent the afternoon in the pool. 

Day 5 - Cross VT & LVRT, Danville to Jeffersonville. 56 miles

Oh my goodness, what a lovely wooded ride, descending for two hours, admiring Queen Ann's Lace and Black Eyed Susans! Each day of this journey has been unique. I planned to camp with my husband that night, so we arranged that I'd ride extra miles so it would position me better for the following day. It all worked out and we spent a lovely evening in a lean-to at Elmore State Park - up a two-mile hill I didn't have to climb.

Day 6 - Cross VT & LVRT, Jeffersonville to Alburgh. 39 miles

My husband rode with me a few miles on day 6, before turning back. The climbing was gentle, I took my time, enjoyed open fields, short wooded tunnels, and tried to avoid a few chipmunk holes pockmarking the gravel surface. I hit one, thankful for my cushiony tires. The Hard Rock has been a comfortable companion, clearly cut-out for dirt rail trail riding. By day's end, I made it Alburgh RV Resort, and camped beneath a tree canopy.

Day 7 - Cross VT & LVRT, Alburgh, VT then, southward through New York, then home, using two ferries. 52 miles

I had positioned myself for a 7th day tailwind ride - in cooler, dry weather - south along the New York shoreline, a place I hadn't ridden in nearly 20 years. It was beautiful! I took two ferries and my husband met me for the last 10 miles home. He'd supported my journey and was always with me in spirit. I'm thankful for this incredibly inspiring loop.

Favorite new touring items: Arm sleeves for sun protection and warmth, plus adding a lightweight sleeping mat that doubles for yoga stretching and extra comfort beneath my air mattress.